From Ait Ben Haddou to Marrakesh
Ait Ben Haddou to Marrakesh was the fifth part (day5) of our route from Merzouga to Marrakesh. It was a 3 to 4 hours drive. The only attraction along the route was Tizi N Tichka, a mountain pass which as about 78 km (1 hour 20 minutes drive) from Ait Ben Haddou
At Riad Caravene we had a simple and relaxing breakfast in the morning and left about 10am. We were back to the new village across Ait Ben Haddou. There we decided to forgo the walking visit into the interior of Ben Haddou. We had seen many Kasbahs during this trip, from the modern ones to the old ones, from the nicely restored ones to those needing repairs. We figured that walking through the dusty and broken paths of Ait Ben Haddou viewing unoccupied houses and kasbah would not be a “must have” experience for us”.
We drove to near the start of the new village and came down to have our last look of Ait Ben Haddou. The fortified village certainly looked majestic from afar. In the mid morning light, Ait Ben Haddou was not as magnificient as seen during “sunset” timing last evening as the red clay brick/mud houses did not have a golden hue.
It was a long 3 to 4 hours drive to Marrakesh so we did it leisurely constantly seeking out for nice scenery view to enjoy. Intemittenly we saw red clay houses and farm lands near the downslope of huge mountain ranges. Our road(N9) seemed to extend into eternity into the mountain ranges, into the valleys, into “out of sight”
Tizi n’Tichka
After1.5 hour on N9 we reach Tizi n’Tichka, a mountain pass. We were surprised that there was a small town with some shops, restaurants and cafes.
We went up the most colorful building which had a cafe at its roof terrace. There were both indoor sitting and outdoor rooftop seats. We sat at the outdoor area, drinking coffee and tea as we looked out into the harsh terrain and the cars that rolled by on N9.
After coffee break we drove on and very quickly we came to a switchback going down \hill. We stopped by a couple of viewpoints to view the stunning scenery! The switchback going down the hill/slope accentuated the contours of the different valleys.
As we drove near to Marrakesh the landscape turned greener. There were more “greens” on the slopes and the villages with their clay red houses contrasted nicely with their green surrounding. The misty mountain ranges far away looked so “dreamy”…
Marrakesh
From medieval times until around the beginning of the 20th century, the entire country of Morocco was known as the “Kingdom of Marrakesh”, as the kingdom’s historical capital city was often Marrakesh (today the capital of Morocco was Rabat).
Marrakesh was one of the four imperial cities of Morocco (Marrakesh, Fez, Mednes and Rabat). This city was located west of the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. It served as the capital of the Marrakesh-Safi region and had a population of about 1 million residents. Marrakesh was founded in 1070 by the Almoravid dysnasty and had historically been a crucial economic center.The city was divided into two distinct parts, the historical city (Medina) and a modern district, Gueliz. Our stay was in Gueliz directly at the boundary between Gueliz and Medina. We were able to visit both the modern and the ancient “worlds” of Marrackesh.
We stayed four nights in Marrakesh and chose an apartment that was near to many of the important attractions in Marrakesh Medina. All of these places were reachable on foot. We walked to many of them and when we were tired we just took the public (bus) transport.
On our 2nd evening in Marrakesh after our trip to Ouzoud Waterfalls we were yearning for cakes and coffee. Using google map we were able to find a good pastry shop. It was just a 700m (11 minutes) walk from our “stay” to pastry shop “Alfadl”. There we found many assortment of cakes. We were spoilt for choice and ended up picking up three pieces for 60MAD.
There was no seat/table at the pastry for us to eat our cakes so we walked back to our apartment. On the way we saw a restaurant/cafe, “The World Queen” and went in to have coffee and cocao drink and ate our cakes at the same time. It was nice that the restaurant/cafe allowed us to eat our cakes at its premises this was very different from restaurant/cafe in Singapore where food purchased outside the restaurant/cafe cannot be consumed in the restaurant/cafe.
It was nice to stay in the modern side of Marrakesh as access to restaurant/cafe amd supermarket were very easy and convenience.
Ouzoud Waterfalls
Ouzoud waterfalls was not in Marrakesh. It was about 3 hour drive over 165 km west of Marrakesh. We joined a tour group on “GetyourGuide” for a trip to Ouzoud Waterfalls. The cost was 524 MAD for two for a guided trip to Ouzoud waterfalls. The trip duration was 10 hr which included a guide, two ways transfer directly at the ground floor of our stay and a boat ride at Ouzoud waterfalsl.
We had tried fitting in Ouzoud waterfalls in our driving route, unfortunately it was quite out of way from every of our destinations. After much planning the best location to get to Ouzoud Waterfalls was at Marrakesh, but rather than drive 6 hours two ways we decided to sign on a 1-day guided trip.
The van picked us up at 9.30am from the ground floor of the apartment where our our stay was located and 3 hours later we reached the entrance of Ouzoud Waterfalls. The entrance to the waterfalls was at the top of a cliff. There we were met by a local guide of Ouzoud Falls. From the top we could not see much of the falls but the valley was gorgeous.
Ouzoud Waterfalls was a series of waterfalls that eventually empty into the El-Abid River. The falls reached a height of 110m surrounded by scenic trails and wildlife( monkeys). Our guide took us on a 2 hours hike/walk to the left, to the right, to the top and to the base of the waterfalls.
At the base of the falls there were several boat operators. We were bundled into a boat which took us closer to the falls.
It was a 10 minutes boat ride which brought us very near the “splash” end of the falls. After seeing the falls from all the top down angles it was fun seeing it from the bottom up.
After the boat ride was time for lunch. So far we did not have to pay for the local guide and the boat ride as their fees were already included in the 524MAD paid for the “10hour 1 day trip to Ouzoud falls”. Lunch cost was not included. It was 240Mad for two, we had bread, chicken tajin (main) and fruit for desert.
After lunch was time to return to Marrakesh. It was another three hours drive back to Marrakesh.
Marrakesh Medina
Marrakesh Medina was a historic center of the city of Marrakesh. It was surrounded by 19 km of walls. Inside the walls were many prominent attractions of the city. It was a huge market place (souks) embedded with Riads, Madrasa and more. The medina was a place international trades, royal and cultural activities. It had became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From our stay to the Medina was a short walk. All our “must visit” attractions were within 1 to 2km from our stay. Walking through the maze of alleys and lanes, looking at the multi varieties of wares coming in all sort of colors, shapes and sizes. We picked up some souvenirs to bring home. Did some bargaining and got the price down by about 20%.
Once were tired we looked for a cafe to rest and found “Soul Food. We went up to it roof terrace to have our tea/coffee/juice.
Soul Food has a roof top terrace, unfortunately the view of Marrakesh Medina rooftops was not special or outstanding. The terrace was just a nice place to rest and relax.
This medina was over 1000 years old covering an area of 700 hectares consisting of 12000 lanes and alleys. We definitely had no plan to explored all the alleys or lanes, we just walked in the direction of our “must visit” attractions (Bacha coffee, Merdersa Ben Youssef, Palais Palace, Jemaa al-fna) and along the way roamed whichever alleys that came our way.
Though the sun was hot but the temperature in the medina was quite cool. Above our heads in the alleys were canopies, some made from fabrics some from wood strips. They made walking in these alleys very pleasant.
JemAa el Fna
We reached Jemaa El Fna at baout 2pm in the afternoon. The big square was empty, only the shops/stores by the perimeter of the square were in operation.This same square would come to life in the evening and we were too early for that.
We went in search of a cafe that overlooked the square and found cafe, Le Grand Balcon. It had a roof terrace that looked directly into the square from one corner.
Since it was too early to wait for sunset we went back to our “stay”, to rest and relax. We cooked and ate our dinner and set out to Jemaa El Fna square again at about 6.30pm. This time we hopped onto the local transport to save some “leg work”. The bus fare was 4 MAD per person. It was not difficult to take ublic transport, we just had to use google map which would show us where to board the bus, the frequency of the bus arrival, where to alight and how to walk to final destination.
Once we reached Jemaa El Fna square we zoomed into Le Grand Balcon, walked directly up to its roof top. Wow! the place was crowded which was so unlike in the afternoon when there were no visitors but us.
We were still in luck and managed to get a table just by the edge of the roof terrace with an unobstructed view of the square below. In the afternoon we only had to pay for the drink we ordered. In the evening we had to pay an entrance fee of 30MAD per person which include a drink. We figured that entrance fee payment was expected to control the crowd that would come in and take photo and occupy the seat.
The square that was empty in the early afternoon was now filled with tented stores arranged in neat rpws. The local crowd also had started to come in. Soon the square was full of activities, vendors and customers shouting, laughing, talking. The smoke coming from the food stores was full of “yummy” aroma. There was also a bunch of street performers dancing and singing in the square.
We had a great time on the roof terrace of Le Grand Balcon, seeping tea/coffee watching the sunset over Femaa el Fna. Watching the square turning alive with lights, sound and activities..Eventually we left at about 9pm and return to our “stay” by bus.
Medersa Ben Youssef
In the heart of the ancient Medina of Marrakech was an important builidng, Medersa Ben Youssef. It was erected by Sultan Abdullah Al-Ghaleb Assaadu sometimes between 1564 to 1565. At the entrance of Medesa Ben Youssef we paid 50MAD per person for the entry tickets.
Medersa also meant madrasa, it was the term for an educational institution in the Muslim world focusing on religious education. This was the place where religious students came to stay and study. It architectural structures and layouts were similar to the madrasa we saw in Fez.
The walls were stunning with intricate design. This renowned historical site was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was once the largest Islamic school in North Africa serving as a center for learning and scholarship for over 800 students.
Bacha Coffee
We went to Bacha Coffee twice in a row. The first time we reached Bacha Coffee at about 11.30am and there we were told that the place was full. There was no indication as to how long we had to wait. The staff at the entrance told us to expect for one to three hours wait.
We did not want to wait so we left and we started to google for a 2nd outlet. To our surprise there was only ONE outlet in Marrakesh and the outlet was the only ONE in the whole of Morocco! No wonder it was so special!
The next day we arrived at Bacha at 9.30am. The store started operation at 10.00am and we were already second in the queue. Near 10am the queue grew to 20 people long.
Finally 10am arrived and the door of Bacha Coffee opened. Being 2nd in line we definitely got a table in the cafe. Walking into the cafe was an eye-opening experience. A burst of systematic tessellated mosaic colours filled our eyes. Wow! Beautiful.
The cafe was beautifully decorated. Everywhere we looked, up, down, left or right were pleasing to the eyes. Even the wall of coffee bins/containers was like a wall of yellow/golden mosaic.
We ordered two breakfast sets one was “Cosmopolitan” and the other was “Marrakesh” and the total bill added up to 380MAD. The waitress gave us a list of coffee to pick. Our coffee was delivered in a golden pots.
The fruit palette, crossiants, egg, juices were served beautifully and the lovely environment definitely enhance the taste of our breakfast.
The story of Bacha Coffee began in the medina of Marrakech, Morocco. It was built in 1910, in the spectacular Dar el Bacha palace, it united the greatest cultural and political minds of the century over glittering pots of “coffee of Arabia” or Arabica.
It was ironical that we came all the way from Singapore to Marrakesh to experience Bacha Coffee when we could easily visit any of its several outlets in Singapore. Bacha Coffee was bought over by a Singapore Business in 2022 and since then it had expanded internationally. So in Morocco there was only one Bacha Coffee outlet but out of the country there were many.
Experiencing Bacha Coffee in Marrakesh was special, it was not just about the taste of the coffee it was all about the environment of the beautiful Dar el Bacha palace which could only be experience in Marrakesh!!
Bahia Palace
Bahia Palace in Marrakech was another Moroccan architecture and design. It was built in the late 19th century by Si Musa, grand vizier (head of government) under Sultan Muhammad ibn Adb al-Rahman and was later expanded by his son who was also a grand vizier but this time under Sultan Moulay Abdelaziz.
Today it was a well known historic monument/tour attraction show casing a vast Moroccan complex of gardens, courtyards and rooms brimming with intricate details and colours.
Entering Bahia PalaceThe tickets to enter the palace was 70MAD per person and the tickets was bought just at a kiosk near the entrance of the palace.
This place was surprising full of tourists. We were at the palace at about 1.30pm and found a crowd in the ground of the palace. We realised that in Morocco the definition of Palace did not necessary meant that it was the home of Kings or Queens or Sultans. It refered to building with great cultural and architectural spendours and heritage.
After the Palais Palace was built, it was gradually expanded. It had three main sections, Grand Riad, Petit Riad and Grand Courtyard, each built at a different periods and each adopting characters of that time of its development.
The palace covered over 20 acres and had over 150 rooms and half a dozen courtyards. This palace was made to impress and designed to be the most luxurious palace in the realm, perhaps even surpassing the sultan’s palace.
This was the largest mosque in Marrakesh. It was located near Jemaa el-Fnaa. We walked past by the mosque many times during our 4 days stay in Marrakesh. The mosque though was opened to visitors, but non Muslim visitors could not enter into the mosque internal which limited them to just walking the gardens of the mosque.
This mosque was founded by Almohad calip Abd al-Mumin in 1147. It was rebuilt by Ad al-Mu’min around 1158 and the construction of a minaret was built in 1195 by Ya’qub al-Mansur. The minaret tower was 77 metres in height and was decorated with varying geometric arch motifs. This minaret was considered an important landmark and symbol of Marrakesh.
Jardin Majorelle
We were at the Jardin Majorelle on our 3rd day in Marrakesh, to our horror at the entrance we found out that entry tickets had to be purchased online and all the tickets for the days were already sold. We went online and managed to buy tickets for entrance into the Jardin the next day at 4pm. The tickets for two for Jardin Majorelle, Pierre Berge Museum (inside the Jardin) and YSL Museum (nearby) was 630MAD for two.
On the 4th day in Marrakesh we arrived at Jardin Majorelle at about 3pm, with one hour to kill we went toa cafe, “My Kawa” to have our coffee break. The cafe was just along the street outside the road to Jardin Majorelle.
At about 4.00pm we went to queue outside the entrance of Jardin Majorelle and about 4.15pm we entered the gate.
Jardin Majorelle was a nice private garden with lush greens, tall desert cactus, ponds and a cobalt blue color building. We would not say that Jardin Majorelle was a “spectacular garden” but we supposed it was one of the kind.
Jardin Majorelle was the former home of Yves Saint Laurent, it had became a pilgrimage for fashion and garden enthusiasts.
Our tickets allowed us entry to Pierre Berge Museum. This was a museum of Berber arts, it was housed in the blue cobalt house. The museum was not too large and photography was prohibited. This museum had more than 600 objects collected from the Rif Mountains to Sahara by Pierre Berge and Yves Saint Laurent.
At about 5.30pm when we left Jardin Majorelle and walked down the road to YSL Museum. The museum architecture was interesting, it was a huge semi building. Inside we saw display of various dresses by YSL and read some facts about his life.
Our Stay in Marrakesh
We booked our stay from booking.com and it had a very long name “Bright Apt in the Heart of Marrakech-Walk Everywhere“. We supposed the owner was trying to emphasize on the “plus point” of the apartment. It was a single bedroom apartment with a full kitchen and washing machine. Parking was also provided.
The apartment was large, clean and cool and we loved the ample space.
The bed room was lovely abd the toilet was spacious and clean. This stay was definitely a walkable distance to the Medina. It cost Eur216 for four nights with no meals provided.
After “dining out” for many days we were only too happy to cook our own meals. The “stay” was in the modern side of Marrakesh so besides plentiful of nearby stores, restaurants and cafes there were also supermarkets. These made cooking our own meals “a piece of cake”.
